Sarah Treanor

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Wet Cyanotype and Ceramics

I started experimenting with wet cyanotype on ceramics last fall in order to create some unique handmade ornaments. The ones last year didn’t turn out quite as well as I’d hoped, but I did learn some important lessons. I’m creating more now for this holiday season, and I’m really trying to get better at sharing my process a bit here on the blog… so here’s some things I’ve learned that are making my prints come out much better this year!

  1. Rinse rinse rinse! - If you think you rinsed them enough, you didn’t! The prints I did last year, even after a good ten minute rinse with running water, kept developing after. So many of my beautiful bold prints started to go. Then I soaked them in water for about an hour if I recall right, and that seemed to help.

    This year, I was determined not to have a repeat of this issue! So I rinsed them in running water for probably a good hour altogether. I then found a this video by Jo Green in which she recommended to do 3 ten minute rinses and let the ceramics dry somewhat between each. She explained that as they dry some, more of the cyan chemicals leech out, and then you remove those in the next rinse.

    Yesterday I went ahead with two extra rinses to make it a full 3 rinses, after seeing my test piece start to turn in some sunlight. So far everything looks good, but I will be letting them dry in a dark room until I see that my test piece is holding color and stable.

  1. Thin layer of chemical! - The first ones I did, I put a LOT of chemical on, thinking it needed this because the bisque clay soaks up the chemical so fast. Wrong! Just a thin layer will do you, and more will just result in difficulties with getting the remaining chemical off during rinse.

  2. Chemical ratio - I’m using a 1:1 ratio of the cyanotype chemicals (Jacquard brand) and getting a beautiful rich blue on white bisque clay. I’ve played with ratios on paper but not yet on clay.

  3. Exposure time and source - Last year I did these out in the sun, and I had a lot of inconsistencies. Probably because of the wind moving the plants, as even with glass on top, the clay ornaments were handmade and not totally flat. This year, I used a UV light in my basement and the results were SO crisp and clear! I think outdoors I was doing only ten minutes for exposure. After a few tests this week, I landed on 20 min exposures as a sweet spot for a good rich blue.

  4. Not “the look” of wet cyanotype - True, wet cyanotype has a very different look than traditional cyanotype. With working on bisque clay, you are getting more of the traditional look because the chemical soaks into the clay almost instantly. So no room for all those beautiful soap bubbles or vinegar spritzes to interact with anything. I did do a test last year coating the ornament with a sealer and then putting the cyan chemicals on, and I was able to get a small amount of more of the wet cyanotype look that way… so something to experiment with more down the road I think!

  5. Bisqueware only! - I’ve not tested cyanotype on high fired clay, but I have read from every source that it won’t work well because the clay is vitrified and no longer absorbent like bisqueware. So a good low fire works fine.

  6. Food Safe? - Nope, sorry, these will not be food safe items. The cyanotype chemicals could still leech out if food were to come into contact with them. I suppose you could attempt a varnish seal, but even so, this isn’t really a food safe sealer either, so best to keep it decorative!

  7. Firing cyanotype - I’ve been reading that you can do cyanotype prints on bisqueware and then fire to a CONE 4 and still retain the print - but it will change to a brown color. I’m definitely intrigued to try this, though haven’t gotten around to testing just yet as my kiln needs some repairs!

I hope some of this is helpful to other artists out there! I’ve learned so much from experimenting and also researching on other artist’s blogs, and am trying to take the time to give back the same way that they have given to me. Two other resources I found for working with cyanotype on ceramics are Maverick Beyond’s blog and Jo Green’s blog as well as some of Jo’s Youtube videos. Best of luck on your cyanotype adventures!

- With Love - 
Sarah